08/27/03
In days gone by, most visitors to Las Vegas wouldn't think of that
city as the place for gourmet dining - but today, there are so many
choices of fine restaurants it boggles the mind.
Perhaps the best of them all has been there for 21 years! Tucked
away behind a priceless leaded-glass entry door in an almost hidden
corner of the Barbary Coast Casino and Hotel - itself an older
property smack in the middle of the newer additions to the Las Vegas
"Strip" - Michael's
goes far beyond the normal expectations of dinner out on the town.
Here you'll discover a continental dining adventure with warm
hospitality and flawless execution. This small-by-most-standards -
50-seat - Victorian dining room announces with its elegance and
romance that you're in a place for the very best of things. Its rich
mahogany, warm colors, and roomy tables are crowned with a spectacular
40-panel stained-glass domed ceiling that glows. Less obvious - but
critical in a place that does not forbid smoking - efficient,
noiseless ventilation ensures perfect environments for each party,
whisking the air vertically away into almost-hidden ceiling ducts.
Seating is plush and comfortable, with high-backed chairs adding
privacy to the room's center tables.
If you have experienced brief moments of abandonment by the crew of a
fine restaurant - have no fear of that at Michael's. Their perfectly
attired staff performs a service ballet - not missing one step in a
totally choreographed - yet unobtrusive and not-stuffy - demonstration
of perfection. This is their art, and it deserves loud applause. From
the moment of your seating to the fond goodbyes, these waiters and
their team of assistants know their roles and they are practiced
professionals. They watch carefully, and every desire you have for
your meal is miraculously anticipated without your asking.
From the chef flows a parade of gourmet delights. First, a splendid
array of hors d'oeuvres while you consider the separate menus - with
no prices on the ones of your guests. Your primary waiter introduces
you to your choices, and carefully answers each question. The design
for your evening's experience is in his hands, and he treats this
moment with the respect it deserves.
Nothing is ordinary here. Not the cocktails - perfection; the wine
list - not too extensive but very well-chosen; nor the entrees,
themselves. From one splendid selection to the next, one simply can't
go wrong. Try the Baked Escargot appetizer if you want the experience
of a lifetime!
The menu
is here for your viewing, but the choice goes beyond. For example,
Maryland crab cakes were "starring" the evening we visited -
and being from that part of the country - they were my choice. I am a
"jaded" critic when it comes to crab cakes - noticing every
flaw. There were none here at Michael's. The ample portions - 95% crab
meat, perfectly moist - took perfection in crab cakes to a new
height. The lamb chops for my guest met the same standard of
over-the-top perfection.
Dazzled by the array of incredible deserts wheeled to our table after
we concluded our main course, we chose a "custom" approach -
ordering fresh raspberries, with sides of whipped cream and vanilla
ice cream. This was not on the menu - yet our waiter accepted the
challenge - very carefully probing our exact desire. Moments later
arrived precisely our wish - albeit outdone again with perfection in
taste and presentation style.
George Washington Carver first spoke the words, "When you do
the common things in life in an uncommon way, you will command the
attention of the world." Michael's restaurant is a reflection of
this in every way. This establishment has taken fine dining to a
clearer definition. The many awards it has earned in the process are
well-merited. We can only add our validation to the praise of
respected critics.
You won't find us writing restaurant reviews very often, but this
level of excellence deserves a case study. We went for a fine meal -
and we left with an experience to be remembered. The price - don't
ask! It was worth every penny, and more!
In a world where "perfect" lives mostly as a marketing term,
it is rewarding to find the real thing.
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